我发现这个例子很有帮助：

https://github.com/visionmedia/express/blob/master/examples/error-
pages/index.js

所以实际上是这部分：

// "app.router" positions our routes
// above the middleware defined below,
// this means that Express will attempt
// to match & call routes _before_ continuing
// on, at which point we assume it's a 404 because
// no route has handled the request.

app.use(app.router);

// Since this is the last non-error-handling
// middleware use()d, we assume 404, as nothing else
// responded.

// $ curl http://localhost:3000/notfound
// $ curl http://localhost:3000/notfound -H "Accept: application/json"
// $ curl http://localhost:3000/notfound -H "Accept: text/plain"

app.use(function(req, res, next){
  res.status(404);

  // respond with html page
  if (req.accepts('html')) {
    res.render('404', { url: req.url });
    return;
  }

  // respond with json
  if (req.accepts('json')) {
    res.send({ error: 'Not found' });
    return;
  }

  // default to plain-text. send()
  res.type('txt').send('Not found');
});